Waterless Wash Tips

Waterless Wash Tips 

This is the perfect step to use a day or two after a wash when there is simply a layer of light dust on your paint. Waterless wash options  are simple, quick and effective. These products are like quick detailers, loaded with cleaners and surfactants to help remove  light contamination without marring your finish.

Our two most popular products are Meguiar's Quick Detailer & IF Waterless  Wash.

They are best used with microfiber towels.

Please know that this does not replace traditional washes. On heavily contaminated vehicles, you will add marring and swirls to the finish, waterless washes are designed to remove a layer of light dust safely.

Waterless Wash How-To

Step 1: Mist the waterless wash product onto the surface you are  trying to clean

Step 2: Let product dwell for 30 seconds to a couple of minutes

Step 3: Using a clean microfiber towel, gently wipe the surface clean

Step 4: Using a second microfiber towel, buff away any streaks

Step 5: Repeat steps 1 - 4 until the entire vehicle has been cleaned

Note: For added lubricity, you can mist the microfiber towel prior to wiping the dusty surface.

Quick & Easy Wheel Polishing With Meguair's

Meguair's Diamond Cut Compund

Eagle one Tire Shine

Eagle One Gel Wax with Carnauba

Eagle One Wax-As-U Dry

Eagle One Superior Nanowax Spray

Car Paint Care Tips

Meguiar's Quick Detailer Tips

Quick Waxing

Polishing Pads care

We recommend not to over saturate the pad with product. A little product goes a long way when polishing with Microfiber pads. Apply a small amount of product in circular or cross patterns on the pad surface for even coverage. Set polisher to a low or moderate speed and begin to polish the paint surface. We recommend a moderate pressure and an even coverage on a 2' x 2' section until desired results are achieved. 

The product should be worked into the painted surface until only a light haze of product is remaining. When the pad surface becomes dry, lightly spur it using the DA Microfiber Pad Conditioning Brush. This will clean the excess of dried product from the pad and revitalize the fibers. Reapply a light amount of product and repeat the same steps on other sections on your vehicle. When your pad becomes loaded with an abundance of dried product or becomes visibly over-saturated, it is time to switch the pad with a clean one.

You should not use the soiled pad again until it is washed and dried. It is very important that you do not over saturate the pad surface with product, as there is no need for this. More product and higher speeds do not create better or faster results. Over saturating the pad or polishing at a high speed may result in less favorable performance like product splattering, wobbling from uneven weight distribution or possibly even pad failure. A new, strong laminate has been used to adhere the Velcro backing to the foam. However, the pads should not be abused with improper user methods. For best results follow the above instructions and you will be amazed

About Microfibers

There is a diverse offering of microfiber products for automotive detailing, including towels, applicators, gloves, dusters and wash mitts.  In the microfiber towels category alone, you will find dozens of different weaves, material weights, fabric blends, colors and sizes - microfiber detailing towels, microfiber waffle weave towels, and even a chamois towel. Here's how I categorize microfiber towels for my own use:

1. All Purpose - This is typically a microfiber towel with a standard split weave and an 80/20 blend of polyester and polyamide.  The towel has no specific purpose, and will be equally adept wiping paint, glass, vinyl, plastic and leather.  This towel will have a medium thickness (plushness) nap.
2. Glass & Polishing - Microfiber towels that work well for polishing and glass cleaning seem to have the same basic characteristics.  First, a glass cleaning cloth should be 100% lint free.  In most cases, this means the weave is going to have a shorter nap than a general purpose towel.  Many people believe that a good glass towel will leave as little water as possible so the droplets will evaporate without leaving a spot.  A good glass towel needs scrubbing power to successfully remove the residues that cause streaking.  It's the same characteristic that makes a good polishing cloth.
3. Drying - My favorite drying towel material is Leather Chamois, Synthetic chamois, PVA Chamois ability to wick up water like nothing else I've found or tested.  It's best to find a fabric that's not too heavy, or you won't be able to wring it out when it gets saturated.
4. Final Buffing - extremely soft, plush microfiber towels with a higher fabic weight than you find in general purpose or drying towels and is made of a 70/30 blend of polyester and polyamide.

 Maintaining Microfiber Towels:

Wash in cold water only.  Warm water can be tolerated, but hot water cannot.  Polyester and polyamide both shrink in hot water.  If you wash in hot water the fibers will shrink and the towel will not perform as intended.

Do not use fabric softeners of any kind.  The softener will become lodged in the microfiber reducing its ability to absorb water, clean and pick up dirt.  In short, you’ll have a soft towel that’s useless.

Do not dry above medium heat.  Treat microfiber towels the same as you would your delicate clothing.  Drying with high heat is worse that washing in hot water.

Reasons to Polish your Car's Paint

Many people believe that cars come off the assembly line with perfect paint.  That's far from the case.  There are many conditions that cause minor paint flaws requiring additional finishing work.  Dust nibs (small particles that land in the paint while it is still wet) are a good example.  Most car manufacturers take care of these problems at the factory using abrasive finishing materials.  Sometimes it is the car dealer who recognizes the flaw and fixes it.

Repairing minor paint flaws through polishing is not harmful to the paint system unless you remove too much paint.  If more than 50% of the clear coat finish is removed, you stand a good chance of premature paint system failure.  If more than 75% of the clear coat finish is removed, you will experience immediate paint system failure.  It can be a very fine dance between success and failure.

Here's a general rule to follow.  If a scratch or other flaw can be felt with your fingernail, it's too deep to be completely removed through polishing.  That's not to say that polishing won't help hide the flaw; it will.  Take a look at the diagram showing paint layers and minor scratches (marring) in the clear coat surface.  These scratches can be removed completely through polishing, because more than 50% of the clear coat would remain.

Non-clear coat finishes have the same basic rules.  You should not remove more than 50% of the top coat (color coat) finish when repairing a scratch or other paint flaws.

It is important to understand how a polish can be used to "hide"  scratches and other micro marring.  In the two diagrams above, you can see that the scratches have hard edges that run at a 30 to 60 degree downward slope.  It is the hard edge and angle of a scratch that creates a perfect opportunity for light reflection.  It is this reflection that enhances the visibility of the scratch.  A good Polish rounds the edges of scratches, reducing reflection.

Here is a list of problems that can be fixed or improved through abrasive polishing:

Scratches - Surface abrasions that do not extend past the first 25% of top coat material can be fully repaired by polishing.  Deeper scratches can be improved as long as they do not fully penetrate the color coat into the primer.

Scuffs and rub marks - Scuffs are broad, shallow surface abrasions that are easily repaired by polishing.  Rub marks are commonly caused by shoe heels (getting in and out of the car) or the bumpers of other cars.  The rub mark is generally a transfer of rubber or other vinyl material to the paint surface.  Rub marks are easily removed by compounding and polishing.

Micro marring - Micro marring, also known as swirl marks and spider webbing, means very small scratches in the paint's surface.  Micro marring is created by machine compounding and in everyday use and maintenance of the vehicle.  Micro marring is easily removed by compounding and polishing.

Etching - Paint etching is a common problem caused by hard water (tap water) or acidic water (acid rain).  Bird droppings are another common cause of paint etching.  Depending on the severity of the etching, polishing will repair or lessen the appearance of etched spots.

Dust nibs - Small particles of dust and other foreign material that land on the paint during the painting process create small nibs on the surface.  Wet sanding, compounding and polishing will remove the visible portion of the nib and level the paint.

Orange peel - When a car is painted, the paint is applied at a consistency and thickness that allows the paint to flow (briefly) and level.  If the paint is applied too heavily, sags and runs will result.  If applied too thinly, the paint does not properly flow and level, causing an uneven surface called orange peel.  If the orange peel is not severe, abrasives can be used to level and glaze the finish to match the rest of the vehicle.

Runs and sags - If paint is applied too heavily, sags and runs will result.  If the sag or run is in the clear coat, it can be repaired, but not if it is in the color coat or primer.  On non-clear coat paint, sags and runs in the color coat can be repaired.

How To Wax Car??

Today, the multilayered auto wax finish on your car, from the primer through the top clearcoat, is only .004 to .006 of an inch thick.  Regardless of how fine the finish is now, it will deteriorate and dull.  Radiant and ultraviolet energy, acid rain, salt, atmospheric pollution, insect fluids and bird droppings wage a constant war on your car's finish. Car waxing provides an easily renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment.

Auto wax also makes your car, new or old, look better.  Many quality car waxes combine enriching oils that "wet" the surface with protective formulas of Brazilian carnauba or modern polymers for a high-gloss shine. 

SELECTING THE BEST CAR WAX 

This brings us to the subject of selecting a car wax.  Car Waxes can be made from a natural wax, usually Brazilian carnauba, or synthetically made of polymers and acrylic resins.

Car waxes and paint sealants make the surface of a car reflect more light.  As a result, the car looks vibrant, looks more alive. Carnuaba-based car waxes add an element of depth and warmth to a car.  Paint Sealants (synthetic car wax) create brilliance and sparkle.

SYNTHETIC CAR WAX CREAMS AND LIQUIDS 

Made from modern polymers or acrylic resins, synthetic waxes offer excellent durability and ease of application.  Quality synthetic waxes have been known to last 3 to 6months or longer, and typically wipe on and off very easily.  Synthetic waxes create a very bright shine and rarely cloud or streak on the paint.

On the down side, many enthusiasts feel synthetic waxes lack depth and richness.  Black cars can look a little sterile or silvery in the direct sunlight.  And, the mirror-like polymers can collect minor swirls and actually highlight paint flaws.

WHAT DO AUTOMOBILE CLEAR COAT FINISHES REALLY NEED?

If the purpose of the clear coat is to add depth and gloss to the final paint finish, wouldn’t it be counterproductive to apply anything that does not buff out to be as clear as the clear coat itself?

Carnauba wax in its natural form is not clear. It creates a dull, milky white film on the leaves of the palm tree from which it is harvested. Have you experienced the white stain residue most Carnauba waxes leave in cracks and crevices after waxing? It follows that Carnauba wax will distort the perfectly clear appearance of a new or well-maintained clear coat finish.

What the modern clear coat finish requires is proper cleaning and light polishing to remove fine cobweb scratches and swirl marks, and clear, durable protection. Carnauba wax cannot meet this demand. .

CAR WAX SUMMARY 

Regular auto wax care is necessary for protecting your car's paint from the elements.  In addition to sealing and protecting, car waxes and auto sealants also improve the appearance of freshly washed and polished paint.  If you use the right products, you can successfully layer waxes and sealants to make your paint look deeper and almost liquid.

Washing & Drying Your Car

There is a single maintenance activity that offers the biggest benefit to your car's appearance, it's keeping your car clean through regular car washing. Washing is the process of removing loose dirt and road film from your car's exterior surfaces. That means more than just a good hosing off. You have to safely scrub it with car wash shampoo solution and a wash mitt.

A proper wash starts with proper car wash products. Your choice of Wash Mitt, Car Wash shampoo and Microfibre Drying Towels is very important. Poor quality car wash products will clean and dry your car, but they won't pamper the finish. Over time these inexpensive products will create swirl marks and dull the paint finish leaving your car’s finish looking bad.

Car washing can be a double-edged sword, though, as even the mildest soaps can remove the car wax protection from your car's paint, causing premature oxidation. Detergents can dull your car's finish even faster.

The high-quality car wash shampoos made today are very gentle on paint, plastic and rubber. A good car wash shampoo provides lubrication to prevent scratching and conditioners to enhance as well as maintain the shine. 

As well as a good shampoo, it takes a variety of car wash products and tools to safely wash a car. Car wash brushes are great to clean hard-to-reach areas, such as fender wells but should not be used on your entire car. Make sure your brushes are paint-safe

CAR WASH & DRYING TOOLS

Most bath towels use a backing material that contains heavy polyester thread. The edges of the towel are stitched with polyester thread, too. Pound for pound, polyester is stronger than steel. This is great for long-lasting bath towels, but it's not so good for your car's paint. Traditional polyester and polyester blend thread scratches automotive paint finishes. Use paint-safe microfiber drying towels to keep your car’s finish swirl free.

Your choice of car wash mitts is important, too. You should find a wash mitt that is comfortable for you to use, but take a few things into consideration. First, your mitt should hold a lot of car wash solution. The more it holds the more soapy water you can get on your car. This is important for lubrication. The lubrication created by soapy water is what prevents dirt from scratching the paint.

Se a wash mitts that clean easily. If it does not easily release dirt and grit, it's not safe for your car’s finish. A safe wash brush can be used on the lower body panels, but should not be used above the bottom-of-the-door line.

The recent popularity of microfiber has created a large number of microfiber products, including microfiber wash mitts. In my own testing I have concluded that many of the microfiber wash mitts are not paint safe. If the fibers have hooked or split ends, designed for dry cleaning and dusting, the cloth will not be free-rinsing. This means that the cloth will retain dirt until it is heavily agitated in a washing machine. The retained dirt particles may scratch your paint.

For drying, a combination of tools may be necessary. The leather chamois has been used for centuries as a towel for drying. They have now decreased in popularity due to the newer technology of the very safe and absorbent microfiber drying towels.

If you like to dry in a hurry, there are paint-safe squeegees available that will quickly remove 80% of the water from your car with just a few strokes. Follow up with your microfiber drying towel, and you're done. If you use a paint-safe squeegee, be careful. It only takes one small dirt particle between the blade and your car to create a scratch.

CAR WASHING & DRYING SUMMARY

Regular car washing is very important to maintaining your car's appearance. Most people forget some of the simple, quick steps that can keep a new car looking new. Take just a few extra minutes when you wash to wipe down the engine, door jambs and trunk. Keeping these areas clean prevents a bigger cleanup job later. To make your job easier and more enjoyable, invest in a few good car wash products. Quality car wash tools make a huge difference.

How To Detail For Shine??

How To Detail For Shine

Car detailing tips will vary depending on the nature of the task at hand.  Ask any three professional car detailers for auto detailing advice, and you'll get three different answers.  So, perhaps the most important step of all is the initial paint detailing evaluation.

Paint Detailing Evaluation

The first step in any detailing program is the evaluation of your car's paint.  Take a quick walk around your car.  Do you see bug stains, water spots and tar spots, or is it completely free of contamination?  How does the paint feel to your hand?  Is it rough (small bumps), or is it smooth like glass?If your paint is smooth and free of contaminants, the only cleaning maintenance it needs is regular washing (30 to 45 minutes a week).  If the paint is stained and rough, it needs a good cleaning.  Clean paint feels like silk.  Cleaning your paint can take 30 minutes or 3 hours, depending on the level of perfection you want to achieve.  Professional car detailers use a paint pre-wax cleaner (a special cleaner/polish) or a paint-cleaning Clay to remove surface paint contamination.  It's like exfoliating your skin to deep-clean the pores.

Once your car's paint is clean, you can more closely inspect the paint for scratches, swirl marks and water spots.  All of these minor imperfections can be fixed with a good polish and some elbow grease (1 to 2 hours), and should be taken care of prior to waxing.  If you prefer, use a good orbital polishing machine for faster results. Ex Makita Polisher, skil Polisher Most scuffs and scratches can be polished so they will no longer be seen or noticed (1 to 5 minutes per scuff or scratch). 

When your paint is contamination-free and polished to a high gloss, it's ready to be waxed (45 minutes to an hour).  Most cars will require deep-cleaning and polishing twice a year, whereas wax should be applied at least four times a year.  With proper care, the paint finish will remain in good condition for many years.

Dressing For Shine & Lustre

A big part of the car detailing process includes applying Polish/Dressing and other Protectants to those surfaces that can't be waxed or otherwise protected.  As just mentioned, your dash and other vinyl and leather surfaces need vinyl protectants and other regular protection.  Leather, vinyl and rubber dressings protect and beautify. 

Many detailers go overboard with applying protectants and dressings.  Maybe they think that if a little dressing is good, a lot is even better.  Not so.  Porous surfaces, such as leather and rubber, can absorb only very small amounts of a dressing.  Typically the leather, vinyl, or rubber has absorbed as much as it can within 3 to 5 minutes of applying a dressing.  The rest of the dressing is waste and should be buffed off.  If the excess dressing is not buffed off, it simply creates a greasy mess that attracts dust and dirt.  For best results, dressings should be used sparingly and frequently

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Meguair's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle

Meguiar's has been a trusted name in car care since 1901.  Meguiar's teaches the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle. 

The Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle demonstrates the 5 basic but important procedures that enable me to restore and maintain a show car shine on your vehicle's finish.  There are no short cuts as each step must build on the previous one.

Step 1.  Washing
Washing removes loose surface dirt and loose contaminants that have not yet bonded to the surface.  All Meguiar's wash products are specially formulated to clean well without stripping wax protection or dulling and drying out the paint.  All Meguiar's washes also contain special conditioning agents that leave behind a slick, high gloss surface.

Step 2.  Cleaning
Cleaning includes both paint cleaning (not to be confused with the washing step) with highly specialized Meguiar's compounds and paint cleaners, and claying the finish with a clay bar.  Out of all the procedures in the 5-step paint care cycle, cleaning is the most important procedure because the results from the cleaning step will determine the end result for the polishing and protecting steps.

Step 3.  Polishing
Meguiar's offers two types of polishes, cleaner polishes and pure polishes.  Cleaner polishes are for removing very light or fine defects while restoring a crystal clear, smooth high gloss surface.  Pure polishes are for finishes already in excellent condition, and create brilliant high gloss with deep dark reflections.

Step 4.  Protecting
Paint protection products (waxes and synthetic sealants) are meant to be sacrificial barriers that seal the surface.  They block those things that would attack your paint from coming into direct contact with it.  At the same time they increase shine and gloss and add slickness to the finish.

Step 5.  Maintaining
Meguiar's Quik Detailer keeps a waxed vehicle looking "just waxed" by removing harmful contaminants before they can damage your finish.  Use this product right after your vehicle is sprayed by a water sprinkler, hit by a bird dropping, or to remove smudges and finger prints.  Pro tip: it's great for cleaning glass too!

The Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle clearly demonstrates there are 5 basic steps to professional and intelligent car care.